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Daniel Roth Mens Watches…
Combining Tradition and
Modern Innovation

It is interesting to look at Daniel Roth’s values: focusing in complicated watches, manufacturing through swiss watchmaking traditions, and constantly develop new innovations to advance in the future. Indeed, its values have paved more popularity for their brand.

The company is relatively young and was only established in 1989. Their manufacturing site is in Le Sentier, in central Vallee de Joux where most of the prestigious watchmakers are located. In 1990, they created a Tourbillon mens watch which was the first complication bearing their brand name.

They created their first Retrograde model in 1992. It has two interlaced circles on its dial. This brought about its current popularity among many collectors for this distinctive design.

Big breakthroughs from the company came in 1998 when they launched two models: the new Minute Repeater and the Papillon.

The Minute Repeater uses an ultra-thin case as well as a very thin movement to accommodate into the case. Of interest would be its repeater that runs from bottom to top.

The Papillon is a jumping hour mens watch that is authentic in design and has been an attractive style that caught the attention of many collectors.

It has double minute hands but when one hand is moving across the butterfly-shaped dial the other is hidden. When the first hand finishes 60 minutes, it later gets hidden while the other appears on the dial again.

Below is a version of the Papillon produced in year 2000.

Daniel Roth Papillon old

A new case shape was later introduced in the new models known as Vantage in 1999. Still encompassing a double-ellipse case but its usual slightly protruding center was removed and replaced with a more curvy case and rounded in its edge to adopt a modern styling.

The break between the case and bezel are also less obvious and noticeable. Two models under this collection would be the Vantage Premier (a Retrograde) and the Vantage Metropolitan.

Bvlgari saw the prospects of Daniel Roth and acquired it in 2000 along with Gerald Genta. Within the same year, they created new versions of the Vantage Premier and the Masters collection. Below are some examples of the great Masters models:

In year 2005, Daniel Roth launched new versions of the Papillon Limited Edition and the Ellipsocurvex Minute Repeater.

The new Papillon this contains a smaller window at the centre for the small seconds. The minutes is no longer butterfly shaped but rather inverted like a smile from 3 to 9.

Daniel Roth Ellipsocurvex Papillon

But same as previous Papillon there are still two minute hands taking over each other. This movement is based on a Girard-Perregaux calibre that is entirely finished in-house, including decoration, hand chamfering, and the Côtes de Genève pattern.

It has patent for its 3-hand mechanism for the minute hand and second hand. It also has a 45 hour power reserve.

The new Ellipsocurvex Minute Repeater contains Power Reserve.

Daniel Roth Ellipsocurvex Minute Repeater

The decentralized hands still exists but the displays have changed with the power reserve indicator placed in an arc between 8 and 4 and the small seconds hand placed off-centre at 7.

It also has a chime indicator at 12 o’clock. It is meant to warn the wearer not to set off the minute repeater manually.

Return from Daniel Roth back to Mens Watches Guide


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| Boucheron | Blancpain | Breitling | Breguet |

| Chopard | Chronoswiss | Concord | Daniel Roth |

| Daniel JeanRichard | De Bethune | Ebel | De Witt |

| Dubey Schaldenbrand | Eberhard & Co. | European Company Watch |

| FP Journe | Franck Muller | Girard Perregaux | Graham |

| Hermes | Invicta | IWC | Jaeger LeCoultre |

| Jean Mairet & Gillman | Locman | Omega | Panerai |

| Parmigiani | Patek Philippe | Rolex |